Supercross motorcycle racing is a popular sport that has taken the racing world by storm. It almost seems as if the sport generated a fan following overnight. As supercross motorcycle racing started becoming more publicized, especially when races were broadcasted on television, that following continued to increase.
Unlike many other sports, supercross motorcycle racing fans not only want to watch the races, on television or in person, but they also want to learn as much as they can about the sport.
When it comes to learning about supercross motorcycle racings. There are many fans who wish to learn more about the rules, others who want to learn more about their favorite riders, and other who want to learn more about the racing surface. If you are looking to learn more about supercross motorcycle racing tracks and surfaces, you are in for some excitement.
This is because a supercross motorcycle racing track can not just be thrown together by anyone at anytime. There is a lot of art, design, and hard work that goes into making the perfect supercross racing track. It is almost guaranteed that you will not only find this process exciting to learn about, but interesting as well.
Before you can begin to understand the process of making a manmade supercross motorcycle track, it is important to remember one thing. There are different variations of the sport. These variations include professional races and amateur races. Amateur racers are individuals who tend to race for the passion of the sport, often at a local track.
While professional supercross racers will also race for the love of the sport, they are also doing so for income. Once at the professional level, many successful supercross racers are more then able to financial support themselves or their families. Since each of these supercross variations have unique purposes and goals, their tracks tend to be made a little bit differently.
With professional supercross motorcycle racing, a professional company is often called in to make the track.
Supercross race tracks are commonly referred to as offroad courses. This means that they are often made of
dirt. In addition to being made of dirt, supercross race tracks are also like obstacle courses.
They tend to have numerous corners, many of which can be considered sharp, as well as jumps. While you would assume that it would be easy enough to throw dirt onto a surface and make a few jumps, the reality is that it isn't as easy as it actually seems. A lot of hard work goes into making a supercross race track, especially a professional one.
The first part of building a supercross race track is to get the needed supplies. As previously mentioned, most tracks are made of dirt. Professional supercross track developers receive most of their dirt for free or at a discounted price. The same can be said for local, amateur courses.
You will find that many individuals and companies are more than willing to give away extra dirt that they have on their land or leftover from a previous building project. Although it is fairly easy to obtain the dirt, many have a problem getting it delivered. The cost of delivery tends to be fairly expensive.
Once the dirt has been delivered, whether to a professional racing venue or an amateur one, the dirt will have to be sorted out. This process will be used to eliminate any unwanted or dangerous debris, including rocks. Once all of the dirt has been sorted out, it will be molded. This molded dirt is than use to create the racing surface.
As previously mentioned, this racing surface often includes high jumps and numerous turns. In addition to high jumps, smaller jumps, often referred to as hills, are used. These help to keep the racing exciting for fans, but competitive for racers.
After the race has ended, the track may need to be cleaned up. Most amateur race tracks are left for a specific period of time. This is often because many amateur tracks are often locally run and operated; therefore, they do not always need to removed.
However, since professional supercross racers will move onto the next event, their tracks need to be cleaned
up. In a way, the cleanup process is just has hard as making the track in the first place. It may take over ten hours, sometimes even up to a whole day, to remove.
Sunday, January 16, 2011
Sunday, January 9, 2011
STREET VIBRATION - 1st vibra low rider rally
The much awaited event during Sinulog is finally here. Yes, street vibration is here. Everyone is invited regardless of the type of your ride; a small or a big bike, with or without a club as long as you enjoy the passion of riding 2 wheels. This event is organized by Federation of Small Bikers Club of the Phils., Inc. and sponsored by Extra Joss. For more inquiries, you may contact the numbers indicated below or send directly to BODOW. Registration is done through text by following this format :
Name:
Contact#:
Club:
A Certificate is also awarded to all riders who will participate on the said event.
Ride out time is before 8am.
Parade Route : Parkmall -> City Ride - > Naga -> Mactan -> Parkmall
There is also a live band at 7pm @ Park Mall and is still FREE of Admission.
Name:
Contact#:
Club:
A Certificate is also awarded to all riders who will participate on the said event.
Ride out time is before 8am.
Parade Route : Parkmall -> City Ride - > Naga -> Mactan -> Parkmall
There is also a live band at 7pm @ Park Mall and is still FREE of Admission.
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
Complete Guide in Choosing Motorcycle Jackets
Experts choose the best. As much as possible, we want to be choosing the way they do, right? Moreover, we have to know their standards and qualifications.
Choosing motorcycle jackets for one can be a taxing process if you do not know where to start and what areas to put special attention to. To expunge confusion from your weary head, here is a complete guide.
1. Material. Motorcycle jackets are either leather or synthetic. The former is the most popular material for jackets. However, synthetic like mesh is now also commonly used specially in hot season. Dupont Cordura, a variety of nylon with a scale going up to roughly 1000 denier, can also be chosen.
Leather can lasts up to 30 years. Through the years it has already established an attitude and traditional beat. It is also easy to clean and very affordable compared to synthetic materials. However, it is less conspicuous because it is usually dark.
On the other hand, synthetic materials have airflow to allow air to penetrate. Usually, they come in bright colors. Also, they are waterproof, longer and lighter. The drawbacks include being expensive, easily dated, complex to clean and do not last long.
2. Conspicuity. Motorcycle jackets must have the ability to be seen from afar by fellow riders as well as pedestrians. Conspicuity is one of the reasons why motor accidents occur. Failure to see another rider is a fatal defect. To remedy this, riders must wear motorcycle jackets with reflective materials or luminous colors. The use of scotelite can be used to attain a level of conspicuity.
3. Ventilation. Air circulation is essential especially during hot season when the sun can hurt the skin and can make a rider sweaty and uncomfortable. To remedy this, riders can purchase jackets that have ventilation zippers. These zippers are usually found under the armpits. Other ventilation holes are also made to efficiently allow air to circulate. A Velcro or a zipper at the back can provide substantial comfort. Pockets can also be added.
4. Waterproof. A waterproof jacket is a must in riding. Riding knows no weather. Thus, riders are always on the go. Nothing can stop them, even the unsympathetic weather. However, if riders ride with a non-waterproof jacket, their health can be at stake. Moreover, this will keep them from further enjoying rides.
Keeping the rider's jacket waterproof is an approach to avoid illness and to shun being stinky, dirty and less confident.
Buyers must be wary with the jacket's materials. A good jacket, according to 'Wild Heart' is like your symbol of individuality. Therefore, your choose mirrors your style in particular and personality in general.
Choosing motorcycle jackets for one can be a taxing process if you do not know where to start and what areas to put special attention to. To expunge confusion from your weary head, here is a complete guide.
1. Material. Motorcycle jackets are either leather or synthetic. The former is the most popular material for jackets. However, synthetic like mesh is now also commonly used specially in hot season. Dupont Cordura, a variety of nylon with a scale going up to roughly 1000 denier, can also be chosen.
Leather can lasts up to 30 years. Through the years it has already established an attitude and traditional beat. It is also easy to clean and very affordable compared to synthetic materials. However, it is less conspicuous because it is usually dark.
On the other hand, synthetic materials have airflow to allow air to penetrate. Usually, they come in bright colors. Also, they are waterproof, longer and lighter. The drawbacks include being expensive, easily dated, complex to clean and do not last long.
2. Conspicuity. Motorcycle jackets must have the ability to be seen from afar by fellow riders as well as pedestrians. Conspicuity is one of the reasons why motor accidents occur. Failure to see another rider is a fatal defect. To remedy this, riders must wear motorcycle jackets with reflective materials or luminous colors. The use of scotelite can be used to attain a level of conspicuity.
3. Ventilation. Air circulation is essential especially during hot season when the sun can hurt the skin and can make a rider sweaty and uncomfortable. To remedy this, riders can purchase jackets that have ventilation zippers. These zippers are usually found under the armpits. Other ventilation holes are also made to efficiently allow air to circulate. A Velcro or a zipper at the back can provide substantial comfort. Pockets can also be added.
4. Waterproof. A waterproof jacket is a must in riding. Riding knows no weather. Thus, riders are always on the go. Nothing can stop them, even the unsympathetic weather. However, if riders ride with a non-waterproof jacket, their health can be at stake. Moreover, this will keep them from further enjoying rides.
Keeping the rider's jacket waterproof is an approach to avoid illness and to shun being stinky, dirty and less confident.
Buyers must be wary with the jacket's materials. A good jacket, according to 'Wild Heart' is like your symbol of individuality. Therefore, your choose mirrors your style in particular and personality in general.
Sunday, January 2, 2011
Motorcycle Sparkplug Maintenance
Tip: Correctly reading a spark plug can save you a lot of time and money.
Sparkplugs:
Types
You may of noticed that there are hundreds of types, sizes and brands of spark plugs on the market. But out of that huge selection, only a handful will work with the motorcycle engine you own. Also different brands (NGK, Bosch, DENSO, Champion, Esc) will work better on different types of engines.
As a general rule of thumb, use the sparkplug your manufacturer recommends for your motorcycle (same brand and part number). Unfortunately some spark plugs are very specific to a type of engine and make only for that engine such as the NGK ME8 for php1,500.00 pesos per sparkplug, compared to the "normal" price of php100-200.00 per sparkplug.
Reading a spark plug correctly:
There are two different main ways to read a spark plug. #1. The first way is to just unscrew it out of the engine and take a look at the end of it, matching the chart below. #2. The second way is the same as #1 except you go for a really hard high revving ride on the bike, pull over and then unscrew each plug to read them. (Just make sure to use gloves as they will be very hot).
A spark plug can easily and quickly tell you the condition of an engine (good or poor), how it is running (rich or lean) and how much it will cost to fix it.
CARBON DEPOSITS
Symptoms: Dry sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak ignition. Causes misfiring, hard shifting and hesitation.
Recommendations: Check for a clogged air element, high float level, sticky choke and worn ignition points. Use a spark plug with a longer core nose for greater anti-fouling protection.
OIL DEPOSITS
Symptoms: Oily coating caused by poor oil control. Oil is leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and hesitation.
Recommendations: Correct the mechanical condition with necessary repairs and install new plugs.
TOO HOT
Symptoms: Blistered, white insulator, eroded electrode and absence of deposits. Results in shortened plug life.
Recommendations: Check for the correct plug heat range, over-advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks and sticking valves. Check the coolant level and make sure the radiator is not clogged.
PREIGNITION
Symptoms: Melted electrodes. Insulators are white, but may be dirty due to misfiring of flying debris in the combustion chamber. Can lead to engine damage.
Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, over-advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, clogged cooling system and lack of lubrication.
HIGH SPEED GLAZING
Symptoms: Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicate that combustion chamber temperatures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high speeds.
Recommendation: Install new plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant.
GAP BRIDGING
Symptoms: Combustion deposits lodge between the electrodes. Heavy deposits accumulate and bridge the electrode gap. The plug ceases to fire… resulting in a dead cylinder.
Recommendation: Locate the faulty plug and remove the deposits from between the electrodes.
NORMAL
Symptoms: Brown to grayish-tan color and slight electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions.
Recommendations: When new spark plugs are installed replace with plugs of the same heat range.
ASH DEPOSITS
Symptoms: Light brown deposits encrusted on the side or center electrodes or both. Derived from oil and/or fuel additives. Excessive amounts may mask the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation during acceleration.
Recommendation: If excessive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, install new valve guide seals to prevent seepage or oil into the combustion chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.
WORN
Symptoms: Rounded electrodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Normal color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold weather and poor fuel economy.
Recommendation: Replace with new plugs of the same heat range.
DETONATION
Symptoms: Insulators may be cracked or chipped, improper gap setting techniques can also result in a fractured insulator tip. Can lead to piston damage.
Recommendation: Make sure the fuel antiknock values meet engine requirements. Use care when setting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging the engine.
SPLASHED DEPOSITS
Symptoms: After long periods of misfiring, deposits can loosen when normal combustion temperature is restored by an overdue tune-up. At high speeds, deposits flake off the piston and are thrown against the hot insulator, causing misfiring.
Recommendations: Replace the plugs with new ones or clean and reinstall the originals.
MECHANICAL DAMAGE
Symptoms: May be caused by a foreign object in the combustion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston damage.
Recommendation: remove the foreign object from the engine and/or install the correct reach plug.
Sparkplug Caps:
Tip: Don't use decorative or spark arching type sparkplugs.
There are many different styles and types of sparkplug caps. Try to use the sparkplug cap that best matches the angle between the spark plug wire and spark plug itself. No matter what shape the spark plug cap is, is will perform the same.
Try to avoid "decorate" or spark arching type spark plug caps as they will LOWER the power to the sparkplug and you will have a weaker spark on stock systems.
Sparkplug Gap
Tip: If you use the exact same sparkplug as your motorcycle manufacturer recommends the sparkplug should be (99%) properly gapped to the correct size. Checking a gap only takes seconds to do.
Always check that the spark plug gap is compatible with the engine manufacturers specification. A gap that is too small means that the spark duration will be very quick and the spark will be thin and weak. The consequences of this may be bad starting and high exhaust emission levels. This will result in an increase in fuel consumption. If the gap is set too large, the ignition system will not be able to cope with the demands and a misfire situation will occur. Some wide gap spark plugs have a longer ground electrode to accommodate a wide gap setting. These must be used where specified, as opening up a standard plug to a wider gap setting may result in the electrodes not running parallel to each other. This could result in abnormal and premature electrode wear.
Why Hot and Cold Sparkplugs? Using a hotter or colder sparkplug can be just the fix to an engine problem. Very basely, if your motorcycle engine is running hot then try using a colder plug, if it is running hot try a colder plug.
- less heat is absorbed by the plug and transferred to the cooling system
- the plug runs at a higher temperature
- the plug is more prone to pre-ignition (if greater than 850 degrees C)
- NGK BP5ES is hotter than a BP7ES plug.
- An overheated plug will be white with brown spots.
Cold Plug
- has a shorter insulator nose length
- more heat is absorbed by the plug and transferred to the cooling system
- the plug runs at a lower temperature
- the plug is more prone to fouling (if less than 500 degrees C)
- NGK BP7ES is cooler than a BP5ES plug.
- A fouled plug will be black and sooty.
Influences to spark plug temperature
Any of the following situations can increase spark plug temperature:
-Lean air/fuel mixtures
-Increasing compression
-Forced induction (Supercharging, turbocharging or Nitrous)
-Camshaft change
-Advancing ignition timing
-Higher engine speed
-Higher engine load
-Lower air temperature (more dense air resulting in leaner air/fuel mixture)
-Lower humidity (more dense air resulting in leaner air/fuel mixture)
Sparkplugs:
Types
You may of noticed that there are hundreds of types, sizes and brands of spark plugs on the market. But out of that huge selection, only a handful will work with the motorcycle engine you own. Also different brands (NGK, Bosch, DENSO, Champion, Esc) will work better on different types of engines.
As a general rule of thumb, use the sparkplug your manufacturer recommends for your motorcycle (same brand and part number). Unfortunately some spark plugs are very specific to a type of engine and make only for that engine such as the NGK ME8 for php1,500.00 pesos per sparkplug, compared to the "normal" price of php100-200.00 per sparkplug.
Reading a spark plug correctly:
There are two different main ways to read a spark plug. #1. The first way is to just unscrew it out of the engine and take a look at the end of it, matching the chart below. #2. The second way is the same as #1 except you go for a really hard high revving ride on the bike, pull over and then unscrew each plug to read them. (Just make sure to use gloves as they will be very hot).
A spark plug can easily and quickly tell you the condition of an engine (good or poor), how it is running (rich or lean) and how much it will cost to fix it.
CARBON DEPOSITS
Symptoms: Dry sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak ignition. Causes misfiring, hard shifting and hesitation.
Recommendations: Check for a clogged air element, high float level, sticky choke and worn ignition points. Use a spark plug with a longer core nose for greater anti-fouling protection.
OIL DEPOSITS
Symptoms: Oily coating caused by poor oil control. Oil is leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and hesitation.
Recommendations: Correct the mechanical condition with necessary repairs and install new plugs.
TOO HOT
Symptoms: Blistered, white insulator, eroded electrode and absence of deposits. Results in shortened plug life.
Recommendations: Check for the correct plug heat range, over-advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks and sticking valves. Check the coolant level and make sure the radiator is not clogged.
PREIGNITION
Symptoms: Melted electrodes. Insulators are white, but may be dirty due to misfiring of flying debris in the combustion chamber. Can lead to engine damage.
Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, over-advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, clogged cooling system and lack of lubrication.
HIGH SPEED GLAZING
Symptoms: Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicate that combustion chamber temperatures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high speeds.
Recommendation: Install new plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant.
GAP BRIDGING
Symptoms: Combustion deposits lodge between the electrodes. Heavy deposits accumulate and bridge the electrode gap. The plug ceases to fire… resulting in a dead cylinder.
Recommendation: Locate the faulty plug and remove the deposits from between the electrodes.
NORMAL
Symptoms: Brown to grayish-tan color and slight electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions.
Recommendations: When new spark plugs are installed replace with plugs of the same heat range.
ASH DEPOSITS
Symptoms: Light brown deposits encrusted on the side or center electrodes or both. Derived from oil and/or fuel additives. Excessive amounts may mask the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation during acceleration.
Recommendation: If excessive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, install new valve guide seals to prevent seepage or oil into the combustion chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.
WORN
Symptoms: Rounded electrodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Normal color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold weather and poor fuel economy.
Recommendation: Replace with new plugs of the same heat range.
DETONATION
Symptoms: Insulators may be cracked or chipped, improper gap setting techniques can also result in a fractured insulator tip. Can lead to piston damage.
Recommendation: Make sure the fuel antiknock values meet engine requirements. Use care when setting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging the engine.
SPLASHED DEPOSITS
Symptoms: After long periods of misfiring, deposits can loosen when normal combustion temperature is restored by an overdue tune-up. At high speeds, deposits flake off the piston and are thrown against the hot insulator, causing misfiring.
Recommendations: Replace the plugs with new ones or clean and reinstall the originals.
MECHANICAL DAMAGE
Symptoms: May be caused by a foreign object in the combustion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston damage.
Recommendation: remove the foreign object from the engine and/or install the correct reach plug.
Sparkplug Caps:
Tip: Don't use decorative or spark arching type sparkplugs.
There are many different styles and types of sparkplug caps. Try to use the sparkplug cap that best matches the angle between the spark plug wire and spark plug itself. No matter what shape the spark plug cap is, is will perform the same.
Try to avoid "decorate" or spark arching type spark plug caps as they will LOWER the power to the sparkplug and you will have a weaker spark on stock systems.
 |
| Types of Motorcycle Spark Plug Caps |
Tip: If you use the exact same sparkplug as your motorcycle manufacturer recommends the sparkplug should be (99%) properly gapped to the correct size. Checking a gap only takes seconds to do.
Hot and Cold Sparkplugs
Tip: It is better to fix the problem than to change the sparkplug to patch it up.Why Hot and Cold Sparkplugs? Using a hotter or colder sparkplug can be just the fix to an engine problem. Very basely, if your motorcycle engine is running hot then try using a colder plug, if it is running hot try a colder plug.
 |
| NGK diagram showing insulator and heat range |
Hot Plug
- has a longer insulator nose length- less heat is absorbed by the plug and transferred to the cooling system
- the plug runs at a higher temperature
- the plug is more prone to pre-ignition (if greater than 850 degrees C)
- NGK BP5ES is hotter than a BP7ES plug.
- An overheated plug will be white with brown spots.
Cold Plug
- has a shorter insulator nose length
- more heat is absorbed by the plug and transferred to the cooling system
- the plug runs at a lower temperature
- the plug is more prone to fouling (if less than 500 degrees C)
- NGK BP7ES is cooler than a BP5ES plug.
- A fouled plug will be black and sooty.
Any of the following situations can increase spark plug temperature:
-Lean air/fuel mixtures
-Increasing compression
-Forced induction (Supercharging, turbocharging or Nitrous)
-Camshaft change
-Advancing ignition timing
-Higher engine speed
-Higher engine load
-Lower air temperature (more dense air resulting in leaner air/fuel mixture)
-Lower humidity (more dense air resulting in leaner air/fuel mixture)
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